Munich

Munich, 29.12.2009: Two Cities That Love Life

 © München Munich is a city that always has surprises up its sleeve. On mention of the Bavarian capital city one thinks of its museums, its churches and its beautiful architecture … Yet this city has other trumps that make it special: its taverns – Wirtshäuser – and in warmer seasons its beer gardens, these gemütlich places where Munich residents and tourists meet to enjoy the good local beer. In addition to this passion, beer halls and beer gardens are mainly places of companionship, places to meet and to belong, because the ambience in which the people imbibe unlimited amounts of beer is relaxed and convivial.

They sit in the beer garden until long into the winter, outdoors on benches arranged neatly around large tables, making friends and discussing everything and nothing over a tankard of beer. From the Viktualienmarkt to the foot of the Chinese Tower in the English Garden, the beer gardens illustrate wonderfully that Munich is a jovial city that loves life, where the atmosphere is far from glum. Another place that characterizes the dynamics of Munich is the Wirtshaus, the typically Bavarian tavern where the city's residents and tourists in particular meet every night to enjoy delicious meals from the regional kitchen. Here, over a dumpling or a bratwurst – always accompanied by a beer – they chat and discuss in a very sociable atmosphere.

Most of all, you notice that Munich loves life … just like Abidjan. In the Côte d’Ivoire's economic centre and seat of government, the people also enjoy life to its fullest. Munich's beer gardens and taverns remind one of the maquis of Abidjan, the large outdoor bars that the city swarms with. Here – as in the beer gardens – guests find local and imported beer, mostly from the Netherlands and from … Germany! As in the Wirtshaus, in the maqui you can enjoy Ivorian culinary specialities such as attiéké (a dish made of tapioca semolina) and foutou (the dumpling of the Ivory Coast, but made from plantains) served with various sauces. As in the beer garden and Wirtshaus, the mood here is cordial: people shoot the breeze and have fun. Nevertheless, a maqui in Abidjan and a Wirtshaus are not as alike as the two steeples of the Frauenkirche. While it is quiet in a Munich tavern, in Abidjan the music is playing full blast. In the maqui huge amplifiers spread a din that is so loud it will break your eardrums. In addition, the DJs belt out songs of praise for guests considered wealthy or who appear to come from a higher social strata. The aim of the game? To pull money out of their pockets. It is a tradition in Africa that a griot, a folk singer, will give anyone who sings him a paean of praise a little money.

The maquis in Abidjan are also similar to nightclubs. Over a beer, young girls hint at the steps of the latest dance craze with swinging hips. In any case, the atmosphere is electrifying. Apart from that these places in Abidjan and Munich are similar in that they wish to promote contact between those who live in the city and those who are visiting. Two very inviting cities that really ought to get closer. How about a twinning arrangement? Two cities that love life and love to imbibe.

Yacouba Sangaré,
Published in Süddeutsche Zeitung on 29 December 2008.

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