Leipzig

On a chilly evening, I set out to explore the cultural city of Leipzig. Amidst museums and historical buildings and monuments, I was surprised to see innumerable coffee shops dotting the market square in the heart of the city. People of all age groups were relishing their evening cup of coffee.

Coming from the "Coffee Land" (Kodagu, which is close to Bangalore in India), the scene at the market place left me wondering why Leipzigers are so crazy about coffee. I decided to explore the reason. And to my utter amazement a friendly Leipziger told me the obsession for coffee in Leipzig dates back to many centuries, and the city houses some of the oldest coffee shops, which serves the best of coffees. This bit of information turned my curiosity into an urge to taste coffee in this alien land. I was advised to visit the famous "Kaffee Baum" which dates back to eighteen century.

After passing through narrow lanes, I found an old, but attractive, monument-like building where the "Kaffee Baum" was located. It was a nice and cozy place dimly lit with candles and classical music playing in the background. Old, black-and-white photographs of what I supposed of important persons were hung on the walls. I could make that of the picture was that of the famous music composer Richard Wagner. Wagner at a coffee shop? It was yet another puzzle before me to solve to ascertain the coffee connection with Leipzig.

Then a server came to me with a smile, offered me a seat and placed quite a bulky menu book. I glanced through the book, but I could hardly construe anything except for the word KAFFEE suffixed to the list of all varieties on offer. The server apparently understood my predicament: he started explaining me about each of the varieties. I cut him short and asked him for anything that is traditional and special to the place. And I requested for a coffee with milk - most Indians drink and coffee with milk. He nodded and in few seconds he arrived with a tray with two cups - one with black coffee and another with milk. The aroma of the coffee almost benumbed me for a moment.

Before I could take a sip, I thought it was the right opportunity to solve my latest puzzle. I picked up conversation with the server, who could speak pretty good English. As he started educating me about the significance of the place and the coffee connection with Leipzig, I was wonder-struck. He told me Saxons (Leipzig is a city in Sanxon province in Germany) love and appreciate coffee the way Bavarians love their beer and Franconians their wine. He told me that citizens in the province are called "Coffee Saxons" and narrated a short story behind it: in 18th century, Saxon soldiers refused to fight their Prussian enemies for not supplying them with coffee. Then Frederick the Great is said to have called them "Coffee Saxons". Kaffee Baum, he said, was patronized by a number of famous personalities like Wagner, Johaun Gottfried Seume, William Sterndale Bennett, Albert Lostzing, Hector Berzior...the list was endless.

I later learnt that there are other historically-significant coffee shops in Leipzig. Café-Konditorei Cather, patronized by famous men like Goethe, Schiller and Jean Paul to name a few, Caféhaus Riquet - all located at the market square. There are more than 50 coffee shops in and around the market square alone, offering every taste from traditional to sophisticated. About the taste of my hot cup of coffee at Kaffee Baum, it was a real treat to my taste butts. The taste was almost similar to what the famous Coffee House in Bangalore serves ( But unlike Leipzig, the landmark Coffee House building on M R Road in Banglore was recently demolished to pave the way for a shopping complex).

The fragrance of the stimulative drink not only lingered on my tongue for a long time, but gave me the much-need warmth to cope with the piercing chilly weather in this German city.

Now I understand why Leipzigers are so found of coffee!